A pilgrim in a foreign land...



With tree growth ans time this is all that ius left of
untouched trenches near Conak Bair



I’m finding it hard to begin today’s post.  I suspect anything I write will not capture the emotional sentiment that one feels when visiting historical locations with such national significance.  From the outset I wondered what shape my patriotic response would take.  I have never been a dedicated observer of ANZAC day.  I appreciate the sacrifice that young men made with their lives but with such a huge increase of patriotic zeal and fervour in regard to this commemorative day, this was an opportunity for me to try and understand for myself the significance of 25 April 1915.  We toured a number of cemeteries on the peninsula that had special significance to Australia and NZ.  Our guide was excellent.  His historical knowledge of the war and of history in general was outstanding and his presentation style was both entertaining and informative. 



The cemetery at Lone Pine where over 5000 men
on both sides lost their lives on a very small peice of land
(about 90m between trenches).  In places, dead bodies lay 14
deep in the trenches.



One of the initial stops was ANZAC cove and for me, it took on a whole new meaning.  To see the cliffs first hand, in what appeared to be a very poor strategic position, was extraordinary.  With such narrow spaces to contend with, one can’t help but think that this was always going to be a difficult campaign for the Australians and New Zealanders.  The area had a haunting yet reverent atmosphere about it.  I felt something touch me but it wasn’t until I read the open letter from Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk), depicted on a large memorial in the cove, did I feel the strong poignancy of actually standing on these shores.

"Those heroes who shed their blood

And lost their lives...

You are now living in the soil of a friendly country.

Therefore, rest in peace.

There is no difference between the Johnnies

And the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side

Here in this country of ours.

You the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries,

Wipe away your tears.

Your sons are now living in our bosom

And are in peace.

Having lost their lives on this land they have

Become our sons as well”

                                                                                            Ataturk 1934

For me, Gallipoli means so much more to me now.  Not so much in terms of a greater patriotic feeling but in terms of the way it gave three nations their birthright.  Turkey view this campaign with such a reverential attitude for as our guide mentioned, Gallipoli was the birthplace of their independence and in many respects it shaped Australia and New Zealand’s identity in terms of their relationship with Great Britain.  Personally, I feel there is such a strong bond between the Turks and the ANZACS and the positive legacy of this shared struggle means that this type of exchange must continue.



A reflective moment at Anzac Cove.