Rounding Up and Herding Cats Cowboy Style

The Last Post

I like the irony of the title of this entry.  Perhaps I should have used it a couple of days ago.   It has been an interesting last couple of days.  Despite the fact that we have been here almost three weeks I’m not sure if I leave Turkey fully understanding what makes this country work.  There are many differences in the way people live from day to day and how they view the world that it’s been a difficult task to process it all and come to a definitive answer on why.  Quite simply, it works.  To say how it works,however, is hard to pinpoint…

We had a very interesting experience the other day.  With some free time up our sleeves, Garth (my NZ room-mate) and I thought we might catch a suburban train and tour some of the outer suburbs and try to immerse ourselves in a little more of the culture of the city.  Having boarded we were pleased to find the train relatively empty and were able to sit.  It was amazing to see how parts of the city had morphed from one time period to another.  The old city wall, which is hundreds of years old, snakes along the line which at times is broken by the presence  tenements and apartment and provides retaining walls for all manner of structures old and new.  Some of these ‘new’ apartment buildings look like demolitions waiting to happen and when you think that it has been condemned you are then surprised to find inhabitants in the second or third storeys…

Past a stop named Yedikule we saw what we initially thought was a enormous football crowd heading to a game.  Scarves flying, banners waving, fists in the air, etc.  As we scanned the crowd we noticed that this was not a sporting event but an organised protest of some kind for at each perimeter of the thronging mass we saw rows upon rows of riot police.  I said to myself “I’m glad I’m on this train and not down there in that crowd.  It didn’t matter because the crowd came to us.  At the next station the overflow of that particular demonstration piled onto the train and within seconds the train was packed like a sardine tin with chanting, fist waving rock throwing crowds made up mostly of men.  I’m not embarrassed to say that my sphincter shrunk to the size of a poppy seed.  Garth who I had seen only seconds earlier was lost to me on the other side of the train.  I felt quite vulnerable for only the first time whilst in Istandbul and wanted out.  At the next station I took the plunge, stood up and found my way to Garth.  I gave him a quick nod and said “We’re getting off”.  We shopped around at the mall that was nearby long enough to feel comfortable that the danger had abated and went home.  We later found out that we had found ourselves in the middle of one of the biggest Kurdish protests that is held every year.  When Metin found out where we had been his eyes popped out of his head.  We were told that these protests can get very dangerous with cars being torched, banks being broken into, etc.  All in all, an interesting story to tell people but if I had known what was in store I might have made another decision on our travel plans.

So, that’s it.  I hope you enjoyed the reports.  This has been a great life experience but next time I’ll be taking my wife. 

A pilgrim in a foreign land...



With tree growth ans time this is all that ius left of
untouched trenches near Conak Bair



I’m finding it hard to begin today’s post.  I suspect anything I write will not capture the emotional sentiment that one feels when visiting historical locations with such national significance.  From the outset I wondered what shape my patriotic response would take.  I have never been a dedicated observer of ANZAC day.  I appreciate the sacrifice that young men made with their lives but with such a huge increase of patriotic zeal and fervour in regard to this commemorative day, this was an opportunity for me to try and understand for myself the significance of 25 April 1915.  We toured a number of cemeteries on the peninsula that had special significance to Australia and NZ.  Our guide was excellent.  His historical knowledge of the war and of history in general was outstanding and his presentation style was both entertaining and informative. 



The cemetery at Lone Pine where over 5000 men
on both sides lost their lives on a very small peice of land
(about 90m between trenches).  In places, dead bodies lay 14
deep in the trenches.



One of the initial stops was ANZAC cove and for me, it took on a whole new meaning.  To see the cliffs first hand, in what appeared to be a very poor strategic position, was extraordinary.  With such narrow spaces to contend with, one can’t help but think that this was always going to be a difficult campaign for the Australians and New Zealanders.  The area had a haunting yet reverent atmosphere about it.  I felt something touch me but it wasn’t until I read the open letter from Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk), depicted on a large memorial in the cove, did I feel the strong poignancy of actually standing on these shores.

"Those heroes who shed their blood

And lost their lives...

You are now living in the soil of a friendly country.

Therefore, rest in peace.

There is no difference between the Johnnies

And the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side

Here in this country of ours.

You the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries,

Wipe away your tears.

Your sons are now living in our bosom

And are in peace.

Having lost their lives on this land they have

Become our sons as well”

                                                                                            Ataturk 1934

For me, Gallipoli means so much more to me now.  Not so much in terms of a greater patriotic feeling but in terms of the way it gave three nations their birthright.  Turkey view this campaign with such a reverential attitude for as our guide mentioned, Gallipoli was the birthplace of their independence and in many respects it shaped Australia and New Zealand’s identity in terms of their relationship with Great Britain.  Personally, I feel there is such a strong bond between the Turks and the ANZACS and the positive legacy of this shared struggle means that this type of exchange must continue.



A reflective moment at Anzac Cove.





Troy and Victory Day

Sorry for the double post but time is running away each day.

Thursday



This is situated in Cannakale city.  Froie and the movie 'Troy'
and donated byt the Japanese company that made it.



We rose early to board the 6.00am bus to Canakkale.  The drive out of the city seemed to take forever but eventually we reached the outskirts.  Treeless plains seemed to stretch to the horizon and intermittently the rural aspect was interrupted by more heavily built up areas that the locals refer to as ‘villages’.  We will show them what a village really looks like when they come over.  We stopped for breakfast at Tekidag and you can guess what was on the menu.  We seemed to be travelling well but we couldn’t determine how far away we were as the road signs indicating the distance to our destination seemed to change all the time.  Long straight stretches of road seemed to make it go faster.  We arrived in Canakkale and continued on to Troy having picked up our English speaking guide in the city.  Troy was quite a treat.  No doubt Brad Pitt and Eric Bana have done quite a bit to increase the romanticism of this place but it was a special place nonetheless.  We walked amongst ruins that are 5000 years old and I had to pinch myself a few times to remind myself of the significance of this historical site.



The Odeon at the ruins of Troy.  Patch is sitting where the king
would have sat.



We tracked back to Canakkale and arrived at our hotel (the Grand Anzac) and the teachers were relieved to be informed that they had their own rooms with all the trimmings.  It was quite a luxury for us although 852 TV channels of which about 842 were non-English was a bit much to bear.

Australia’s ambassador to Turkey, Ian Biggs, accepted our invitation for a visit and he was chuffed to meet the students.  I think he was of the opinion it was only to be a few students and was surprised to be talking to 30 of them. 

Friday

The huge monolith.  Look at the size of it
compared to the people on the ground.

We were informed early that today was going to be a long day.  It was a very long day but in many respects, worth the wait.  We travelled to the end of the peninsula where the Dardenelles strait lies.  The Turks have erected this gigantic monument which defies belief.  We didn’t know what to expect but we guessed it was going to be big because military security seemed to be stationed at every stop way along the peninsula road.  It seemed to be one big chaotic affair when we arrived with people heading in every possible direction.  The venue had so many uniformed military personnel of every persuasion that we began to wonder what was going to eventuate.  A long 4 ½ wait was what eventuated and the students were magnificent.  I think they defied their generation with the patience and fortitude they showed today.  After the wait we were treated to a show and a half.   The Turkish Prime minister arrived (by helicopter mind you) and gave his speech, we stood as the Turks sang their national anthem and then we all started moving off toward the monument.  What occurred next was surreal.  The crowd witnessed an awesome air show with helicopters and jets doing fly-bys and people generally walking around taking photos.  This is their Victory day but whereas on ANZAC day we pay tribute to the lives given, this means so much more to them.  This victory was in many respects the foundation of their struggle for independence.

One of the fly overs.  Maybe Dad can
tell us what they are?

 It is also clearly evident that they love Australians.  Whilst many were getting photos with old Turkish Mehmets dressed in traditional clothing, the most popular attraction was an Australian military dignitary who was attired in full military dress.  He was more popular than Mickey Mouse at Disneyland.  Talking with our Guide yesterday, he said that Australians were loved in this part of the world because of what they share at Gallipoli.  Both countries were compelled by other nations to fight their wars and because of this there is a strong affinity.  Apparently, for some particular commemoration, Australia and NZ were invited by Turkey to attend.  Great Britain wanted in on it and Turkey politely declined.  There is still some sentiment felt in that respect and I can understand why.  After all, to them, we were the invaders.

Tonight I was in for an unforgettable experience.  Metin’s team (Fenerbache) was playing Galatasaray (Harry Kewell and Lucas Neill’s team) and he secured some space at a café where they game was being shown live on TV.  Talk about passion.  It is not hard to get infected by it all and I took upng backi the Aussie team whilst Metin showed his one eye support for Fenerbache.  It was a game for the ages and I enjoyed every minute.  Fenerbache won 2-1 which was a good thing because at one stage Metin had picked up a chair and I thought he was gonna toss it.  And that was after his team scored a goal.  Not being a soccer fan, I could see why they are so passionate but give me AFL any day.

Yesterday post Today



This photo belies reality.  On either side of this frame is the city
of Istanbul, an unbelievable metropolis.



 This morning began with our customary wait.  Although our program is supposed to begin at 9.00 each morning, it never does.  They plan on the fly and it takes a little getting used to I must admit.  So what should have begun at 9.00 extended to 10.15 which meant that the ferry we were supposed to catch for the Tour of the Bosphorus, we missed.  With more delays at the school we missed the following one also.  Anyhow, we eventually boarded at 12 midday and departed for the tour.  Because of our tardy beginning, we were given the shorter tour which disappointed me because we were originally going to be heading to the black sea and get out at some fishing village.  It was a nice tour of the river in spite of its brevity and we were surprised by the number of river frontage properties that had their own swimming pools.  There is some wealth in Istanbul, let me assure you of that. 

        In the afternoon I went for a walk down to Sultanahmet square.  It seems that the busy day is Sunday because it seemed quieter than I had noticed before.  I am continually astonished by the number of stores that have one guy standing out the front, about 3-4 more inside and hardly any customers.  They also seem to be on their mobile phones quite a lot, probably bragging to their mates in another store “Hey Hamit, I have had 2 customers today, I might go home early!”.

Part of the Roman aquaduct that spans a small part
of the city.

       Took an evening stroll to a Roman aqueduct near where we are staying and it was well worth the walk.  The Romans certainly knocked form and function on the head and I was able to get some very good photos with it all lit up.  On our way back, Garth wanted to take the back streets.  I haven’t felt unsafe at any point here but I was a little more wary and while Garth was dragging his feet, mine were moving a little faster.  I thought to myself, this is probably how the ANZACS lost Gallipoli, and all this time we blamed the British.

       We have an early departure in the morning to make our way to Canakkale and Gallipoli so I better sign off and get about 4 ½ hours sleep as it is now 12.30am.

Palaces, palaces...

Domlabache palace. When I heard we were heading to another palace I must admit the eyes almost rolled into the back of my head. We were stunned by the beauty of Topkapi, how would this compare to that? Well in many respects it showed a new side of sultanate splendour. After donning our plastic slippers, we entered the first room. This architecturally French inspired palace was the epitome of the word ‘big’. Here the sultans took residence from the mid 1800’s and in 1923 when the country became a republic it was home to Turkey’s revolutionary messiah Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk) and became the place where he died. It has become Turkish folklore that the clocks inside the palace were all stopped at 9.05am, the time of his death. There is quite a posthumous cult of personality when it comes to Ataturk. You cannot go anywhere without seeing some kind of representation of him somewhere.



Front entrance to Dolmabache palace.



The reception halls we saw were quite big and we were fascinated by the grandness of it all but our jaws dropped to the floor when we were taken into the grand hall. This was massive! Hanging in the centre of the room was a 4½- tonne crystal chandelier, apparently given as a gift to the sultan of the time by Queen Victoria.

It appeared that we were given the reader’s digest tour as a school group because there were other parts that we were not allowed to see. Lots of security here and we were not allowed to take any photos inside.

Spent the afternoon walking around the spice bazaar again. I really like it there, more casual and with such a wide range of goods. Lots of spice shops, Turkish delight, any type of tea you want (even found a banana tea), cheeses, trinkets, and so on.

Ayasofya at night.  Took me 27 goes to get this shot.

Spent the evening being wined and dined (without the wine for me of course) in a restaurant in Taksim. It was a very stately affair and I was kicking myself because I had a nap in the afternoon and wasn’t told that the principal and some other school officials were going to be there so while everyone was dressed up here I am in jeans, t-shirt and jumper. I felt a little out of place but as is the Turkish way, no-one made me feel uncomfortable. The food? I won’t bore you with the details but it was magnificent. As I sat there on the top floor of a restaurant overlooking the lights of the city I started to feel like a fish out of water. I began to realise that this must be how the other half live and was it only a couple of days ago that we saw the poor side of Istanbul and kids running through the slums. The extremes are here like in any city but perhaps they are a little closer together in Australia and NZ.



Turkish Guards performing a march at Domabache Palace.



After dinner, I couldn’t help but take a look at the bill. About 1400TL ($1000AUD) which I guessed worked out to 120TL a head. Perhaps that is reasonable for any city but I think it was still too rich for my liking. Nevertheless, I was thankful. Money seems to be thrown in the school’s direction quite a bit. I spoke to Metin about his boarding house budget and he told me his budget for the year was 500,000,000 TL which works out to be $334,000,000AUD. About half is paid by the government and half by the parents. My vegies almost flew off my plate. When I heard this I felt better about the meal thinking that perhaps this is just a blip on their financial seismograph so I ordered the expensive dessert.

My Favourite Day



The beautiful marina on Prince's Island



Today was T-Shirt weather.  It’s hard to believe that just a few days ago we were layered up to the eyeballs in winter clothing and today we had T-Shirts and sunglasses.  Today our hosts sent us to Prince’s Island, one of eight islands off the south coast of Istanbul in the Marmara Sea.  It took about an hour on the ferry and our guide informed us that we were getting off on the fourth island.  The sea was a millpond today and the ferry ride was smooth and gentle. 

A peacefully surreal experience at the top of the hill

On these islands, there are no cars and people get around either on foot, bicycle or horse and cart.  I was looking forward to being away from the city and as we looked back to the mega-tropolis, the evident haze of pollution was quite alarming.  We got off the ferry and immediately noticed that whilst the Turks consider these islands as holiday destinations, each was a mini city of its own.  One cannot escape the amount of product and stock small businesses carry to service their customers.   As I stood at the wharf entrance I felt relaxed when all of a sudden, splat, a significant amount of thick liquid had hit my shoulder.  It felt as though someone’s ice-cream had fallen out of its cone and landed right on me.  Let me tell you something, Turkish seagull crap, smells, looks and feels just like Australian

 seagull crap.  I just closed my eyes, took off my jacket, washed it with the water in my drink bottle and packed it in my bag.  I just thought to myself that this day can only get better.  It did.  We were treated to a bounteous lunch of chicken kebabs served on a bed of rice, dips, fresh bread, fresh salad, pickled peppers and a cold drink.  I was stuffed.



It was great to ride through these streets with no cars.



 I took the opportunity to work lunch off by hiring a bike for 5 lira (about AUD3.50) for one hour.  It was awesome just riding around the island going wherever I wanted and no helmet required.  I climbed the highest peak I could (Think Sandy Bay – Mount Nelson) and got a great view of the other side of the island.  At the top of the hill there were horses grazed amongst the trees untethered and nearby was a huge fenced and gated property.  Think the house in Psycho and times it by 100.  Not sure whether this was an old orphanage, sanatorium or hospital but it was quite spooky and looked as if it had been condemned for years.  I’m kicking myself that I didn’t get any photos of the place.  I coasted down the hill and was charmed by the old world feel that this place had and loved touring at will on two wheels.  My hour ended quickly and so we soon boarded the ferry back to the city.

In the evening I took time to take some night shots down at Sultanahmet square being dazzled by the splendour of the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya at night.  I’m sure if Blanche was here she would have done better with the camera because when I use it I feel like such a rookie.

Free Time

It’s Sunday and we were left alone to explore at will.  Whilst the ladies took off to see some of the more historical sites, Garth and I decided to take a few tram and metro lines to see where they would take us.  We found our way to Taksim Square and were taken by the spaciousness of this spot.  The old trams that travel along the main street add to a certain old world charm which seems at odds with the types of stores that line the main strip.  This is no bargain avenue and I suspect one takes time just to be here but not necessarily part with any money. 

We journeyed back to where we started at Eminonu and kept moving south to Topkapi where we transferred to the Wastern Suburbs.  Believe me when I say that the term ‘Western Suburbs’ must be internationally recognised our two countires for as we headed further west, things began to change.  I turned to Garth and said “I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore, Toto”   Head scarves became more prevalent and it felt as if we were in downtown Karachi not suburban Istanbul.  We took it as far as it went and made our way back along the line to where we began and continued on to Yeni Camii (Yeni Mosque) to the Entry of the Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar).  The tram was packed tighter than you can imagine and I’m certain that some old guy had his hand up between my legs at some stage.  It was unbelievably crowded.   When we alighted, the situation was no different.  People were everywhere.  Scores of pigeons flew overhead and I was determined not to get crapped on. Fortunately I escaped the white missiles.  You have to have your wits about you here.

As soon as we entered the Spice Bazaar there was an immediate positive feeling about the place.  The vendors were less pushy, the prices were more reasonable, many items had price tags on them, and the smell of spices throughout the bazaar gave it an exotic feel.  There were a few groups of Americans here so we were able to tack on to the end of some English speaking tour groups and listen in.  I will definitely go back and explore it a little further.

A word or two about the Turks #2

Social dynamics are very interesting.  We noticed at meal times in the cafeteria that boys and girls sit separately.  I asked our host whether there is a rule that says they don’t sit together.  He said there is no rule and that they choose to sit with their friends.  As I made more observations in the street I noticed that this is widespread.  There is lot of male-male and female-female fraternisation but no male-female.  Having said that, it appeared that newlyweds were very open with their public displays of affection.  Perhaps they are making up for lost time.

Saturday No.2



A view from the Pierre Loti Tea Gardens.



The sun shone nicely through the window at daybreak and I could even spend the morning in just a long sleeve shirt and woollen vest.  Because of the clear skies we could take a trip to the Pierre Loti Tea Gardens for a great view of the city looking down the Golden Horn.  A light haze tended to blanket the horizon but it was nice just to sit and enjoy it.  Tea and coffee are in abundance here but fortunately for someone who does not drink either there are many alternatives elmar Çay (apple tea) is sweet and caffeine free thankfully.  It was a great bus ride out to the gardens driving through some of the areas that tend to be off the beaten tourist track.  You see a raw side of Istanbul and how the real people live from day to day.  Traffic is very busy here and twice the bus driver had his side mirror clipped by passing motorists and both times he reached ut to straighten it while he was still driving.  Organised chaos is a term that best describes the situation over here.  Or is it ‘chaotic organisation’?   On our way to the gardens we stopped at a Bulgarian Church made from iron with some very old and magnificently carved thrones.  There was an historical explanation behind it but I didn’t take a lot in at the time and don’t have the time here to explain its how it came to be built other than to say it appeared that some favours were done for some Bulgarians at some stage in Ihistory. 

A photo of the Basilica Cistern.  A huge underground
area beneath the city. (175m by 90m)

            After our tasty boarding house lunch, we headed to the Basilica Cistern.  This was quite an experience.  The cistern was constructed by the Byzants in the 6^th century to hold the city’s water and now as a tourist attraction it is truly one of the hidden gems of the city.  You descend down into the cistern and I must admit they have done well to portray and present this attraction in a ghostlike yet strangely captivating manner.  I was quite taken by it and needless to say, the group was patiently waiting for me at the top although I didn’t know it at the time.

Inside the Blue Mosque just before prayer time.

            We made our way over to the Blue mosque just as they were closing it up for visitors.  Special rules applied here as we were required to remove our shoes and the women had to don scarves or headwear.  Much like the Aya Sofya, I was astounded by the scale of the construction.  Amazing.  I think I need to find time to go and sit there and enjoy the bustle of muslim observance without worry of having to keep up with our ‘guide’ who seemed to be on a schedule.  We had a little free time afterwards so headed down to the Grand Bazaar.  This place is alright for one visit but I don’t think I will go back.  This is rip off merchant city.  Embroidered caps you can buy on a street stall for 3TL (AUD$2) they try to flog for 15TL (AUD$10).  They are quite hard headed too.  They will not come at a reasonable price, even though it is still more than elsewhere.  Stuff them.  Three times I’ve made them walk away from me so feel that is a victory in itself.  Viva La derriere entanche!!!

Friday

One of the Harem Courts

I’m sitting on my bed and I am trying come to terms with what one can only describe as sensory historical overload.  When you visit a place like Istanbul you will come to see that history is not only a part of this great city.  History is the city.  They say that it is the cultural capital of Europe.   Maybe a few nations to the west might disagree but from what I have seen, Istanbul could give the title a fair shake.



The Offending Photograph

This morning we made our way to Topkapi Palace, the jewel in the crown of all that is Ottoman opulence.   I was awestruck by the scale of the structures, the ornate design of every decorative item even down to the mother of pearl inlays on almost every door and window frame.  The extensive number of design varieties used in each of the buildings was wonderful.  The palace, however, is more than this.  It is also a museum and we saw artefacts that date back to Old Testament times and many of Muhammed’s personal possessions are on display here.  Security is tight and I failed to see the sign outside one of the rooms that said ‘no photographs’ and snapped away at will, only to be told by a security guard (with typical Turkish politeness of course), “no pictures”.  Now the right thing to do would have been to delete it, right? He he he.



One of the many antiquities in the Muzesi Arkeloji



You pay an entry into the palace grounds and then another entry into the Harem.  This captured my imagination right from the start, and not for the reason you filthy people are thinking, but by the way this building is set out.  It appears to be a palace within a palace and I suspect that despite the prison-like feel within the walls, the harem women were well looked after.  In one room we entered, some Arabic singing began.  It was beautiful and set the tone wonderfully.  When we neared the end of the room we saw that it was being sung live.  I could have listened to it all day.  Two Italian teens were a little disrespectful as he sung and it was a funny sight to see their mum come in and tell them off.  I was waiting for her to give them a clip around the ears and disappointed that she didn’t.

After lunch, we visited the Muzesi Arkeloji (Archaeological Museum), a neo classical building which houses items that at the very least are 2000 years old.  Some are even dated to 1500BC.  It is a surreal experience as many of these artefacts are there for you to touch and when you see the date it was constructed, you feel as if you are a world away.  On our way there, there was much happening down at the palace gates.  Black cars and suited men with earpieces.  We saw an official party of men exit the palace and were told by the information man it ws the PM of Serbia.  Just another day in Sultanhamet Square.

A word or two about the Turks #1



From a balcony in Topkapi Palace overlooking the Bosphorus to
the Asian side of Istanbul.



They love black.  I tried to assimilate early so made every effort to wear black clothing everywhere I went.  It doesn't seem to matter because wherever I walk I get the same thing.  “Eksuse me sir, mey I ashk yew wun kweschun?”  Hawkers are everywhere and they can spot foreigners in a blink and they know the lingo.  Our Kiwi colleague even got a Kia Ora from one of these guys when he found out she was from NZ.  Needless to say, they fleeced her.

Wednesday

We woke up to settled snow all over the city and it was a beautiful site.  It was calm to begin with and not as cold as the previous day (which was quite frankly colder than a witches nipple) but we felt we were going to be in for quite a snowy day.  Garth, my roommate from NZ, wanted a proper breakfast and I decided I did too.  We found a café open at 7.15am and went in.  Food is relatively inexpensive here.  I had an omelette, 2 fresh(and huge) brioche and a hot drink for 10 Lira(6.50AUD) all in a place where many would spend three times that much for the same food and less friendly service.  The food is plentiful in Istanbul.  Vendors on every busy corner sell bread rolls, muffins roasted corn cobs and chestnuts.  You can feed a hungry family of 6 for about $8AUD if you are in a rush.  First place of interest we visited was emotionally overwhelming – Hagia Sofya Museum.  This 1500 year old structure is an engineering and architectural masterpiece of the world that has to be seen to be believed.  A true testament to the Byzantines as this is the place where there emperors were crowned.  It was interesting to see the beauty of the Roman Christian mosaics set against the 4½-   man high Islamic prayer discs reflecting the different uses this building has had over time.  I will admit that it takes a lot to impress me and I was rendered speechless by its magnificence.  One thing that also struck me was the number of cats that are allowed to roam freely in this building and indeed around the whole city.  I asked one of the Turkish kids about this and he said “Yes, people feed them”  I replied, well in our country we shoot them!”  He was mortified.  He looked pale so to set his mind at rest I told him I was only joking, we only shoot kangaroos.  He just about choked on his Turkish delight.

We spent the afternoon in the Military museum.  In many respects it was a bit of a let down.  I mean how many curved swords and depictions of Mustafa Kemal (Ataturk) can you look at before you start thinking that you’ve seen this all before.  The students had a snowball fight outside and while all the other teachers were having babies I was just laughing thinking I’d like to join in.  We soon realised that we had to be quite serious here.  Not many smiles from the security guards.  It appeared that they were hiding state secrets here such was the feeling they were giving off.  We were treated to a performance by the Ottoman marching band.  Apparently this form of military marching band gave rise to the modern form after being adopted by many European marching bands.  Fortunately those countries improved it for although I appreciate the history behind it, it wasn’t my cup of Turkish tea.

Tuesday

This morning we started in the usual way.  Olives, cheese, bread, cheese, olives…etc.    Not sure if I’ll be able to last much longer on this kind of diet.  Might have to run and grab some fruit, milk and cereal to clean myself out.  Oh and it snowed.  They expected a snowstorm overnight but it came a little late and I was surprised when a couple of the Kiwi kids said they had never seen snow before.  We had a tour of the school, took an English class taught by a German, and then a chemistry class taught by another German but this time in German.  Guess what, Chemistry is just as boring in German as it is in English.  After some wandering around at the school, we changed into some other clothes and got ready to board the bus for Miniaturk, a miniature representation of all of Turkey’s built wonders.  It was a very, very, very cold experience.  I am sure the wind chill factor was off the scale.  Back on the bus, thawing out, we headed back to the school via a different route.  We saw another side of Istanbul and although I’ve seen a bit of the city now I still find it all overwhelming at the massive scale of this place.  Despite the amount of traffic it all seems to flow very well and although you hear lots of car horns it is never angry fist waving stuff, more just letting someone know you are there.

This is the principal.  Don't you think he looks
like the guy who played the mayor in The Dish?

These Turkish kids are really nice kids.  They have a very relaxed way about them and you never see them angry.

The Kiwi kids and the Aussie kids are starting to warm to each other now.  I’m sure by the end of the tour they will be best friends.  I found out that one of the kiwi students is LDS.  Her dad is a bishop in Auckland.  A small world indeed.

Monday

Today the exchange began in earnest.  School starts at 8.30 here so I eventually made my way to the front of the school to meet the kids who had spent the weekend with their homestay families.  All seemed really happy with their first real experiences.  I asked one boy what he had for breakfast and he said "Cornflakes".  It made me chuckle.  I hope they were halal.  We were introduced to the school and  witnesseda stirring if somewhat subdued rendition of their national anthem.  Turkish flags are everywhere although the patriotism is quite subtle in many respects. 


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The Grand Bazaar with some of our Kiwi counterparts
 in the foreground

 

We spent the morning being introduced to the school German department.  Kids are taught science and maths in German and the arts and humanities subjects in Turkish.  1,000, 000 kids in Turkey apply for entry to this school in Year 9 and only 180 are accepted by exam.  These are perhaps the smartest kids in the country.  Despite this fact, it took them 1/2 hour to get a Powerpoint presentation working.  Looks like technical difficulties are an international phenomenon.


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This is for you Isaac.  Someone has put graffitti on this monument. 
See, even things that are hundreds of years old still cop it.



Afternoon was spent in the Grand Bazaar.  You may have heard of it but this is a place that cannot be described.  You get to haggle all day long and the vendors have a very good humour and way of selling.  They asked if I was Australian and one guy goes "Ahhhh g'day mate'  ' Throw another shrimp on de bobby'.  We had a laugh and then we did business.  He was good but don't worry Blanche, he didn't fleece me.

We were taken to dinner by our German Exchange directors.  They gave us an instruction to meet by the mosque.  Now that may seem an easy instruction but their are so many mosques around that we got lost and after some impatient phone calls "Vere are you, ve are vaiting" we eventually met up.  I said to the fellow anzacs "It's easy to see how they lost two wars"  They laughed.



The Haggia Sofya mosque.  This picture does not do it
 justice as I only had my phone with me.



To be fair, they were lovely hosts.  I have a feeling they are rolling up to their eyballs in it.  I saw the bill and my own eyeballs almost landed on Gerhard's plate.  They had to barter just for the price of the main course which came to $300 for 6 of us.  That was only half the bill.  Needless to say we thanked them for it but walked away thinking how lucky we are to have the quality of food in our restaurants available at a fraction of the cost.

So back at the boarding houise now ready to get to bed.  Can't believe this is only the third day.  It already feels like a week.  When I get a chance I'll post some better photos in a day or two.

First things first

Now before I start, I just want every one to know that originally I intended to say no to this trip.  With a new school year starting, Blanche back at Uni, two kids' birthdays over the period, it seemed that a trip to Turkey would remain a distant dream.  I called Blanche when I knew of the invitation to tell her I was going to say no to it.  She convinced me otherwise.  In spite of the challenges she has to put up with over those weeks she said "If we both can't go at least you can".  How can any husband not help but love and appreciate a woman like that...

             ...so, here it is....

Hobart to Istanbul (via Singapore and Dubai)



A quiet singapore lounge



Not the Dubai you see on the brochure

Now for those who have done it and got through okay, well done.  I for one, however, struggled with the long haul flight.  30 hours with no sleep sucks and being cramped on a plane is no way to travel in spite of all the video and audio on demand available and the attendants distracting you with the next meal they want to serve you when you only just downed the one before.  Singapore was a yawn (literally) and Dubai was a bit soulless (kinda like Canberra) and I must admit I was a little unsettled when I watched the map of the plane tracking right over the top of Bagdad.  They have these cameras on the undercarraige of the plane so at least you can see the missiles coming for you and it doesn't come as a big surprise.

Eventually we flew into Istanbul.  Words cannot explain the sight and the feeling.  This is not just any big city.  This is a Mega-city of 17 million people.  It has been around for 3000 years and has been under control of various empires including the Greeks, the Romans, the Seljuks, the Byzants and the Ottomans.  Mosque minarets dotted the city and and the built-up boundaries of Greater Istanbul stretched north and south of the Bosphorus until they were lost in the haze.  We were met at the airport by our hosts, whisked through the city for a lighning tour of some sights (passing under a roman aquaduct that people were just walking on - with no fences and no entry fees.  It just blew me away.)

The students were picked up by their host families, we met the principal and settled into our lodgings before our Turkish hosts took us out for dinner.  I'll say this from the start.  I'm going to need to exercise while I am here or else buy a new wardrobe.  We enjoyed a 'plain' Turkish meal of Kofte and salad and then walked around the corner to a coffee shop for dessert.  I had to explain that I didn't drink caffienated drinks and hoped they wouldn't kick me out of the country.  They understood totally and told me not to worry because they had decaf options.  I was happy so tried a decaf hazlenut latte with a pear and almond tart  It was awesome.

By this stage I was faltering.  30 hours without sleep is not recommended so I headed back to my room when I kid you not, 5 minutes there is a knock at the door and some guy is standing there with a Turkish meat pastry and a jug of water.  Of course I accepted it but I had to put it in the fridge for breakfast.  It gave me a sense of what they must be like here.  Very welcoming.  Hey Blanche, I think Maarten Bollin might have been right.

It's now Sunday, we have some free time so I might just wander around this part of the city.  We are pretty much in the middle of the CBD and believe it or not, there is no noise at night.  Lying in bed it is as quiet here as it is at home.  Except of course for the 5.00am call to prayer.

Next post will have pictures.  Today is a camera day.